How To Use Semi Buckhorn Sights

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I got a nice used Marlin 336 the other twenty-four hour period, which introduced me to buckhorn sights -- I gauge this is a "semi-buckhorn" -- for the first fourth dimension. I assumed that the proper sight film was where the front bead rested in the small-scale notch in the center of the rear sight. In other words, my rear sight makes a U shape, except at that place's a small part cut out in the very eye -- just the right size for the dewdrop to residuum in. Still, I saw an illustration for a smilar sight, and it showed the front post college -- above the notch in the centre. (I hope I'm doing a decent chore of cartoon a verbal film of all of this, and non making it confusing.)
Anyway, I'm seeking enlightenment as to what is the proper sight movie for a semi-buckhorn. Thanks.
plinky Member

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May 23, 2008

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374
Here's a Wiki folio on atomic number 26 sights generally:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_sights

Almost ane/four of the way downwardly are examples of sight pictures. I'd say that East represents your sights pretty well. This is the textbook example although it applies poorly IMHO to any target except a round dot of known size and range. I may be misunderstanding, merely this ever looked to me like a target sight picture where the intended POI is well above the sights. Expert strictly for paper targets but difficult in the field.

I actually don't similar open up sights at all compared to an aperture sight. An open up sight picture is fuzzier and you are forced by the rear sight to take the intended POI above the front sight bead. I prefer a peep rear sight with factory front bead on my Marlin. When shooting targets at 100yd, I center the bead on a nine" white target of the picnic multifariousness and center the plate in the rear aperture (most automatic). Out to 150 yds, I don't feel that a scope would offer much more precision and the POI barely ever strays from under the forepart bead. In other words, equally long as a deer is within max range and I center the bead in his vital zone, he is mine...no calculations needed.

I know this goes beyond what yous asked only it has worked well for me and I thought y'all might want to spend a few more bucks to improve your rifle greatly. Only my thoughts.
Plinky,
That's great information, all of which leads me in the direction of installing an aperture sight on my 336. What kind practice you use? Thank you.
Cypress Member

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Jun 2, 2008

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TX
I grew up taught to shoot with a fine bead (the forepart sight barely showing in the rear). I admit that I oasis't shot open sights in a while merely this all the same sems to be the most accurate way for me to use open sights.
plinky Fellow member

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May 23, 2008

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374
Flynt,
My rifle has a Lyman 66 now but I used a Williams for a while that would serve the same purpose but didn't have quite as proficient aligning knobs.

These both screw into the manufactory holes on the side of the reciever merely I think I've seen some that apply the scope mount holes on top besides. I would expect that the manufactory drilling varies by the age of the rifle. HTH
Semi-buckhorn (and fifty-fifty more than so the full buckhorn) rear sights - in their day - were criticized for obscuring the target (game). And, as the Wicki- article says, beads were criticized because differences in ambient calorie-free could ship shots off-target in whatever direction or combination of directions. 19th century targetshooters wasted no time in switching to discontinuity sights or aperture/post sight - all in slow finishes. Hunters kept using beads on rifles until the era of scopes arrived. The "hood" often offered on front sights (a la Marlin 336) was/is to protect the rather delicate forepart dewdrop sight merely besides to reduce the effect of differences in ambient calorie-free.
Since the inflow of affordable/reliable scopes, hunters have by and large been indoctrinated to sighting to Bespeak-of-Aim. Just fifty-fifty every bit belatedly as the 1960s there was still plenty of discussion and employ of " the vi o'clock hold "... meaning your irons ( open up rear and dewdrop or post front ) were prepare and then you lot held at the bottom of your target ( like the six on a clock confront ) and your shots impacted in the heart of your target. Some very accurate target shooting tin be done with this sight picture - as in 5-shot, i-pigsty groups with a .22 at 50ft.

Hunters used the "6 o'clock hold" sighting method specifically to allow greater visibility of their quarry during the moments of shooting... and likewise to simplify and hasten the aiming. In those innocent days hunters were not conditioned to think they should put their bullet into the rear third of the left ventricle - they wanted to " hitting the vitals ". It sounds odd today just it actually works every bit well now every bit in yesteryear.

Consider a .44 magnum pistol. Today, many people would probably sight it in to hit P.O.A. at peradventure 100yds., then concern themselves with ascension and driblet. But it can be sighted in to be "zero'd" at 150yds. which - today might seem silly, but it isn't.

With such a setting the 180gr. HP will be...

2.5 " high at 25yds.
4.seven" high at 50yds.
v.8" high at 75yds
5.5" high at 100yds.
2.7" high at 125yds.
"zero'd" at 150 yds.

... which is to say you can u.s.a. the same " 6 o'clock hold " on a deer (forth bottom line of the breast) at whatsoever distance from about 30yds. to 120yds. and expect a striking in the vitals.

the "in the field" effectiveness (quickness and clarity) is helped by the facts that y'all don't need to accept much time to " make up one's mind where to hold ", the bottom line of the chest is quick and easy to pick out even if you have to guess at it due to tall grass, and the front leg becomes your quick/easy left-right reference.

Since I grew up with the "six o'clock concord" it has been natural for me to use it when hunting with my iron-sighted Ruger Super Blackhawk and it has worked very well for me on deer. It is certainly the quickest sight film to acquire with the SBH. My Single-Six revolver is arranged the same and a concur on the midline or betwixt the front legs of a groundhog puts a .22 magnum in lethal spots every time. Yet it doesn't blot out the vitals expanse thus allowing me to see when the animal makes some modest, last-2d alter in posture that requires an adjustment of aim. If using irons on a rifle the aperture/postal service arrangement is (IMO) the way to go.

As a trivia notation - the "new" ghost band" sight concept is not new at all. Writers from the first one-half of the 20th century often brash hunters to remove the disc from their Williams aperture sights and just use the pigsty left by its' removal in order to speed up sight picture conquering. Works like a charm.
I similar to see the front end bead sitting in the middle of the rear sight notch. I want the portion of the target I am shooting at sitting only at the peak of the dewdrop.
Other folks exercise it diffeent. What really matters is your being consistant with your sight picture.